The Ghost Ape of Carew: Carew Castle from Lawrenny Quay
Paddle from Lawrenny Quay into the winding tidal reaches of the Cleddau and Carew Castle eventually appears above the water, its ruined towers reflected in the millpond and hiding one of Pembrokeshire’s strangest ghost stories. In the 17th century, legend says Sir Roland Rhys lived here with a Barbary ape rescued from a wrecked Spanish galleon and trained to obey his whistles; one stormy night, Rhys ordered it to attack a merchant, who escaped badly injured but cursed his attacker. By morning Rhys was found dead in a pool of blood and the ape had vanished – and on dark, stormy nights it is still said to return, its piercing screams heard around the castle. You’d hear ot from the river too. Carew has other ghosts, including a Celtic warrior, a kitchen boy whose pots can supposedly be heard clanking, and the White Lady of Princess Nest – but it is the thought of that unseen ape somewhere in the ruins that makes the final approach from the water deliciously unsettling, particularly if the light is fading.
Distance 8.3km return
Access restrictions No licence required
Starting Point Lawrenny Yacht Station, Lawrenny Quay, Lawrenny, Pembrokeshire, SA68 0PS. Grid ref. SN 012 061; What3Words invents.outs.dancer; Lat/long 51.718, -4.879.
Parking Lay-by near café beyond Lawrenny Yacht Station (no charges)
Launching Slipway of Lawrenny Yacht Station short walk from parking area – fees apply, pay at the yacht station.
Pitstops hearty homecooked food on the waterfront at Lawrenny Arms, tel. 01834 526222.
Trips One way canoe tours from Pembroke Dock to Carew Castle (to late October), Paddle West, 07342 741268 www.paddlewest.co.uk
Special points Access to Carew is only during Spring HW where you can paddle all the way up to the grass bank below the French tidal mill on the R of the dam wall, plan to leave 2-2.5 hrs before HW when the channel at Lawrenny starts to deepen. Winds can blow along the wider sections of the estuary making progress slow going. Strictly no paddling in the tidal mill pond.
During neaps, there will be lots of exposed mud banks although the main channel stays open you may not be able to get all the way up to Carew but just like its neighbour Cresswell Quay, it’s a lovely paddle to see how far you can get before the tide turns.


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