Key Facts

• Location: Scilly Isles
• Size: 237 hectares
• Terrain: Easy to follow coastal path; mixed grass, sand, rock
• Access: Scillonian III; plane
• Height gain: 497 metres
• Map: OS Explorer 101 Isles of Scilly
• Starting point: Hugh Town Quay

St Mary’s Scilly walk summary

The circular walk around the coast of St Mary’s, the first port of call for any visitor to Scilly, is the longest route in the Isles of Scilly. It is a great way to explore the fortifications, ancient village and burial site, fantastic beaches, wonderful granite headlands, heath and woodland of this highly varied island. There are also plenty of swims and pitstops on the way, as well as five further islands that can be accessed at low tide.

Look out for:

• • Fabulous wild swimming spots
  • Halangay Down ancient village
  • Harry’s Walls and the Garrison Walls
  • Great pitstops on the way

St Mary’s Scilly walk route description

Start at the The Quay, walk past The Mermaid inn, then along Hugh Street past the Co-op, keep left to join Lower Strand. Follow the short promenade path beside Town Beach.

Continue uphill until you can detour to walk along Portmellon Beach, or walk a bit further and take the small lane beside the Gig Shed Café, past the Sailing Centre. Optionally, detour uphill to Harry’s Walls, the remains of a 16th-century fort. To continue, follow the track to the north end of the beach, find the clear track to Porthloo Beach, which skirts past craft studios, with widening views over Newford Island and Hugh Town’s harbour. Once on Porthloo Lane, follow signs to Juliet’s Garden Restaurant.

Pass through several gates leading to open fields. Turn left at the junction to follow the coast to Carn Morval Point, with dramatic views of Bryher, Tresco, Annet, and more. Continue on heathery paths and climb onto Halangy Down, where you can explore the remains of an ancient village and Bant’s Carn burial chamber, over 4000 years old.

Descend through bracken to Block House Point, with great views toward the Eastern Isles, then continue to Watermill Cove and sandy Pelistry beach near Toll’s Island, accessible by a tidal sandbar. Follow cliff-top paths, passing rocky headlands and Porth Wreck.

Climb to Porth Hellick Down to see burial cairns (the largest of eight on St Mary’s), then descend to Porth Hellick Beach. Pass the memorial to Rear-Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovell, who died in the 1707 shipwreck here. From Porth Hellick, continue over Salakee Down with views of the airport.

Round Tolman Point to reach Old Town, the island’s original settlement. Those short on time can end here and return to Hugh Town by road or bus.

To continue the full loop, walk through Old Town Bay, turn left at the head of the bay, and left again to visit Old Church, burial site of Harold Wilson. The path climbs past Carn Leh, a rocky outcrop, and continues around Peninnis Head. Stay low on the rocky coastline to avoid the steeper inland track. You’ll pass towering granite tors and Peninnis Lighthouse, with sweeping views over St Mary’s Sound.

The path rounds the headland to descend to Porthcressa Beach with cafés to relax in. Here, either walk directly north for a short distance to return to Hugh Town. Alternatively complete the circuit by walking around The Garrison by heading slightly inland to the Garrison Gate, beside Tregarthen’s Hotel. Enter through the 1742 archway and continue clockwise to circle the Garrison Wall. This historic route passes a sequence of coastal batteries: Higher Battery, Garden Battery, Benham, Morning Point, Woolpack, and Bartholomew. Look out for the peculiar Colonel George Boscawen’s Battery and panoramic views across to St Agnes and Bishop Rock.

End at the Star Castle or follow signs back to the Garrison Gate and descend into Hugh Town, completing the entire island walk.

Wild swimming spots on St Mary’s

St Mary’s offers several excellent wild swimming options:

• Porth Mellon – shallow, popular watersports bay
• Porthloo – shallow, sheltered
• Watermill Cove – quiet and beautiful
• Pelistry Bay – turquoise shallows and access to Toll’s Island
• Porth Hellick – smooth pebbles and calm waters
• Old Town Bay – good stop for food and a dip
• Porthcressa Bay – plenty to see underwater

Where to eat on the walk around S Mary’s

There are some great options to refuel on your walk around St Mary’s:

• Juliet’s Garden (above Porthloo) – cafe & restaurant with sea views
• Carn Vean Café – welcoming café, good food, short walk from Pelistry beach
• Old Town Café – shaded garden and cakes
• The Mermaid in Hugh Town – cosy pub to finish

More St Mary’s walks

We recommend the following books for walks around St Mary’s or other Scilly Isles

Islandeering

Walking in the Isles of Scilly – Paddy Dillon, Cicerone Press

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